A Travellerspoint blog

Jan 2006

Day 4 - Cramped Internet Cafe in Navsari

Out-of-this-world times so far Wish I could breath while writing this entry...

Hey everyone

Day four of the adventure and it's all pretty crazy. India is out of this world. Have been keeping a track of whats goin on when I get home on my Auntie's laptop and will try post them all up here one day. It's not easy to get to the net here. Currently Im cramped in this tiny cubicle upstairs somewhere in Navsari. Our rickshaw driver is supposed to pick me up again in half an hour. Havnt sorted out how much this place cost so hopefully they dont try rip me off.... fockers!

Just thought I'd check in, you'll get lots more when we get decent internet or bring the stuff from home in here on a cd. Have been eationg like a horse, sunk a few beers and generally having a good time. We were meant to set off for Goa or some other week-long trip tomorrow but its been delayed because all of the stuff we're doing / got to do here. Have scored a mean shirt for about $7 and most things here are ridiculously cheap. Have also gone crazy with photos, just because theres so much out of it stuff here. Took a couple of movies hanging out of the rickshaw too, trying to capture the absolute CHAOS on the roads down here.

Had a wee solo adventure in town getting to and from this internet café. Reasonbly cheap, it turned out to be 20 rupees an hour. Less than a buck! 20 minutes of the power cutting out and emails being lost it didn’t seem like such a bargain…. Our rickshaw driver met me here after dropping some fam off at the vegetable market. This driver clearly also a GC, whilst following him back to the vege market where some Fam were waiting with the rickshaw he took me to a CD Store. Unfortunate they were all Hindi / Bollywood CDs and I couldn’t read anything on them...

Nick

Posted by nickrav 3:20 AM Archived in India Comments (0)

Welcome to the Gaam

Matvad, Dandee Beach and beyond...

Started the day with a cool dawn walk towards Dandi beach. Nice to be out before the rest of the village wakes up. Got some mean shots of the sunrise and of random goings on along the main road. Some absolute MANSIONS here, which are invariably built by NRI's (non-resident Indians) from the UK or wherever, spending up large with an exchange rate of 80:1. Nice. Came back as people were biking to school, taking their cattle to the fields and what not along the main road... quite interesting. Found myself followed by a couple of cattle and tried to take a covert video over my shoulder of them with their owner. The set-up of our “pleasant rural road” (Singh et al, 2005, p657 Lonely Planet India) in the Gaam (village) is different from Mumbai: ONE main road which everything happens along surrounded on each side by forrest / pasture / farm and then the occasional road off it leading to various villages.

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Lagan
Lagan (wedding) happening in the village today, which we all got invited to yesterday. Ended up doing it with Maya and Jaya as others had gone to the town for boring stuff. Weddings are done quite differently over here; you invite your ENTIRE village (since you all pretty much know each other) Anyway, the pre-wedding (11-4pm) included a live band, well kinda Indian Karakoke with one guy on the mic all the time. Then there was the feed. OH the feed. I had to sit with Tagore, the guy who took us, as the ladies sit in different aisles. And it was fully village-style....Seated cross legged on mats on the ground. Had a MASSIVE feed, pretty sure I sunk more than the guy next to me...which is a good sign. Apparently they like big boys in the gaam.

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[/b]Navsari Take One
Had a wicked second half of my first day in the Navsari city centre. We caught the bus in just for the experience; and an experience it was! At least 70 people in a bus that was meant to seat maybe 40. I think I know where stagecoach send thier old buses now.... this thing was borderline impound material. Noticed that the driver was reaching BEHIND his seat to change gears, there was a huge carburettor sitting next to him courtesy of a massive hole cut in the floor and beside that a four-pack of heavy duty car batteries connected together to power the beast. Interesting. Guess this is India’s idea of suped-up.

Navsari was as crazy as Mumabi but on a smaller and dustier scale. Didnt see any slum areas but the roads were carnage thanks to the shoppers / cyclists / motorbikes / rickshaws / cows / pigs / camels and cars that were weaving over them. Scored a mean shirt for all of about 180 rupees. $6! We also had a pretty yum munch at this hotel, some Masala Dosa (Savory pancake with spiced potato stuff on top) and a couple of pizza-like things... curried of course but a bit of a gamble, we ordered a "P A Pizza" and took bets on what the 'P' and the 'A' would have in store. After opening the box we decided that Maya won with "Possibly Anything" - try pickle, cucumber, cashewnuts, cabbage, capsisum, mango chutnry and cheese atop pretty much a big bread roll. Fairly boring shopping with some of the fam, but am definitly keen for another trip in. Finished up with buying some fresh fruit and vege in this crazy Bazaar (market) totally packed with people and their wares before a rickshaw ride home that was even more outta control than the taxi ride here. Wicked experience really, like a rollercoaster but with real live cars/peope/animals/bikes to avoid. Vice City fans buy your tickets now. No shortage of 'shit' / 'holy .....' and the likes from the back seat. Its not how guys drive these things that I cant get my head around.... its how they survive! Im thinking law of nature applies: IF ITS BIGGER THAN YOU GET OUT OF THE WAY....COZ OTHERWISE IT WILL KILL YOU. Doesnt get much more natural than that.

Home at dusk and have just had a visit from the people who rent my Grandad's (on Dad's side) land down the road. We went over there this morning to visit his grave, pay some respect and check out the extensions that Dad had got put onto the house there. These guys were cool, in the morning they hooked us up with this big jar of 'Tahi'. Essentially palm tree sap; called 'Neruh' when it's freshly sapped, you let it sit till the afternoon and it naturally ferments and becomes alcoholic. All good. We chilled it and just tried some, tastes kinda like really really sweet Malibu. (and yes I've got plans to distill that bad boy...see how damaging it can get). Anyway, these guys came to visit and invited us over for a woodfire bbq tomorrow. We've lined it up for late afternoon, should be awesome. Remembering that there's a ban on the sale and purchase of liquor of any kind in this state...... as they left one of the guys semi-whispered to me that they've got some beers in the fridge. This guy obviously a good cunt. My new best friend even. Excellent... beach, beers and bbq lined up for tomorrow. How can this possibly go bad?

Nick

Posted by nickrav 7:16 AM Archived in India Comments (0)

"Horn Ok Please"

Road Rules India Style

15 hours flying....'fun'
Well, where to start really? Have experienced so much already and it's not even 40 hours since we left NZ. The flights have been pretty standard; although Singapore Airlines interactive entertainment system was pretty sweet.

Didnt manage to absorb any of singapore in the 40 minutes we were there. Pretty much: touchdown, walk 2km to the right gate and board another plane. Enjoyed the use of the travellators whilst Grandad got special service in a little airport-buggy. Thought we'd pop out the PDA in hope of a wireless broadband hotspot (you know, Singapore being super high-tech and all) and managed to get online but it was so RIDICULOUSLY slow that there was no point even trying to update the blog. Come on Singapore, we can do better.

What Singapore are good at though, is employing BEAUTIFUL airhostesses... all petite AS. We decided it must be SA Corporate Policy to employ strictly size 8 or below.

Mumbai
Whilst landing in Mumbai wasnt anything spectacular, it was a completely different story once you left the terminal. Im pretty sure I was speechless for th best part of half an hour. There's shit here you just cant your head around.... All the taxis outside the airport were like 1960s style and there was a parking lot FULL of them, all the roads here are completly HAND made aswell, saw quite a few teams of people hacking at them with axes with women then carrying the rocks and stuff on their head. We met a relative here who got us a taxi back to his family's house where we had lunch before he escorted us to the train station for the train to the village (gaam). We needed it too, this place is a JUNGLE

Dont even consider getting behind the wheel in this place. My life was flashing before my eyes so fast and so often during our half hour ride to this dude's house that I could barely see. The place is just SO out-of-control and so random, I think the roads came after everything else so they fell around what was already there. Ridiculous really. The road is simultarnously shared by people / rickshaws / cars / trucks / animals. What I did manage to see was the ridiculous contrast irony by bombay. Architecutal masterpiece Hyatt Hotel neighourboured by a 4-block-big shanty town, hundreds of rickshaws blotted with the occasional E-class mercedes... What we saw was kinda mid-class Mumbai but we WILL be heading back here to indulge in the finer side of town. Hotels, malls, bars, beatiful ladies.......okay you know where this heading.

Serioulsy, our taxi driver had a big sticker of some god on his windscreen, and you NEED it to navigate this traffic. Beeping is a way of life..... Alright so in an average day in NZ you'd use your horn maybe once, twice if lucky. Here it's at least 20 beeps per minutes. There's no indicating... who needs to indicate when you can toot? Trucks and stuff here have signwriting on the back "Horn OK Please"... Still trying to figure that one out, though heres how far I've got:
Honk if you want to move
Honk if you want to stop
Honk if you want to go left
Honk if you want to go right
Honk if you see a gap
Honk if you want to see a gap
And lastly, if in doubt.... HONK

I think the government forgot the INTEGRAL part of roads / motorways / freeways when the designed the whole system. There are no lanes! The road is pretty much as wide as as many cars as you can fit across it. Even the motorways, technically they're just two lanes (one each way) but they're BIG FUCK OFF LANES that you can fit 5 cars along.

Beauty, so had a nice Indian lunch with a distant relation in an apartment in Mumbai before heading for the train station. Another harrowing taxi ride later (just wait till you see the movie clips) we were at the train station amongst many more throngs of people. Having booked first class we had to find this, luckily enough too as anything but first class was pack wall to wall with bodies. Leaving here at 2.50pm with no real sleep since taking off made for very short fuses whenever the train stopped for long. Made a couple of 'friends' while trying to find our train cabin.... local kids offering to polish my shoes for some coin. Pity this guy just didnt get the message that I didnt want my white plastic choes polished.... his next tack was that he was "hungry", but as I was his "friend" I should help him out. Then he started hassling Mum and Maya too... ended up having to explain to him that he's wasting his time with us and him and his friend "Rahul" (Yes, I asked and No, hes not much of a batsman) would be much better off annoying someone else.

[b]Four hours on a train....more 'fun'
Four hours of train ride later we got to Navsari station. Real dark. No daylight savings. And it's 'winter'. The train ride had potential but turned out to be fairly boring....... Passed a lot of slum type material for the first half hour in the outskirts of Mumbai and then some desert type stuff which is rice paddifield for most of the year. Heaps of people tending to to other plants on these plains. A few hills in the distance but otherwise this place was dead flat. Saw a crazy tower & complex built into the side of a hill that looked like it came out of Thunderbirds. Nuclear powerplant? Biogenetic engineering testplan? Post-Mumbai there was just heaps of moderately dense forrest / weed / pasture with little villages and stuff around the train stations. Haha had a bit of a local advenutre when I jumped off at one of the stations to try get us some 'masala flavoured' chips. The train stops for anywhere between 30seconds and five minutes so you gotta know what you want and see it from the window before you make your move. So.... after getting some ruppees and a gameplan together I jumped off and hitup one of these stalls at a station. Hit the guy with 5 ruppee and thought I'd just add requred. He said something so I slammed another 10 in his direction and grabbed the big bag of chips. Turns out 15 may not have been enough as he strated saying MORE stuff. Rememebering that the train could start again at anytime I quickly grabbed the small pack of chips and hoped for the best. Didnt look like he wanted to give me any change so I jumped aboad again. Think he ripped me off... but end of the day 15 ruppee = 50 cents, so I'm still a happy man.

The others (who'd caught a taxi straight from Mumbai airport to the village / gaam) had sent a car to pick us up. That was all good as it was nice crusing down the road without quite so many people on it. Got to Matvad (home village) at 7.30 and pretty much got stuck into dinner. All Indian vegetarian but pretty bloody hot so I couldn't eat much! Got the lowdown on the house, what was where and stuff before crashing out at like 9.30.... on an absolute BRICK of a pillow.

-Nick

Posted by nickrav 7:07 AM Archived in India Comments (0)

Departing @Auckland

(boring)

New free computers at the terminal. Couldnt resist jumping on one. So here we are. Been here for hour and half already.... dont get on the plane for another hour and a half. Wheres the bar?

Oh, we're off. Everyone's gone through the boarding gate without me. 'Thanks'

To Singapore!

Posted by nickrav 2:31 AM Archived in New Zealand Comments (0)

Auckland

Sitting in Aramoana, Devonport

overcast

Righto, its currently 12:34 am on Thursday 19 Jan 2006, we leave in just over 24 hours. Time to think about packing....... oh and travel insurance!

For future reference here are some things to tell your friends:
our emails:
Nick - nickravaji@gmail.com
Maya - maya.ravaji@gmail.com
This site - http://indianadventures.travellerspoint.com

We'll endeavour to put up as many stories up here as possible, apparently we can add photos so if you're lucky you'll see some of those too!

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Testing, testing, one two three.....

Posted by nickrav 5:50 PM Archived in Packing | New Zealand Comments (2)

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